For Emmanuel Giboulot there are no fancy appellations. Do not expect a Montrachet, a Corton-Charlemagne or a Chassagne under his name or label. Emmanuel vinifies Haute-Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beaune, IGP but in such a precise way that the terroir speaks with the same level of confidence and specificity
Giboulot: “I don’t really know why I’m producing wine, probably because of my family context, opportunities…and the fact of my being an inhabitant of this region where vines and wine have created landscapes and a culture for centuries. When I started to make wine with my first vines, it took me time to understand that my wine needed to look like me, and so not appeal to everyone. Then from that point I was truly able to adapt myself to my terroirs by understanding and respecting the accuracy of those ones, regardless of their greatness or modesty”.
When you have 47 years of biodynamic farming under your belt, you know your plots of land and how to deeply the wines may express it when given the chance to do so without mediation. Emmanuel Giboulot’s father, Paul Giboulot, was one of the two producers to begin practicing Biodynamic farming in Burgundy around 1970—the other one being Jean-Claude Rateau. With their initiatives successes came two more: Laloue Bize-Leroy and Marc Guillemot in the late nineteen-eighties; and they were followed by Anne-Claude Leflaive and Jean-Louis Trapet in the mid-nineties.
“The most important point in my mind is the right practice. You can bring much more work than everyone else, spray plenty of preparations, if you do not perform the right thing at the right time, the results won’t come up.
All of this knowledge comes with the time and therefore the experience. That experience gives you the power to act in a very efficient way. This is by trying new things, making mistake, having results (good or bad) that any producer will progress and understand better his terroir”.
Indeed, there is also this human decision and style, essential to preserve this pure intensity.
Emmanuel harvests slightly early, never practices battonage, gently and slowly presses with a steady mechanical horizontal-screw press , and he never uses new oak. The wine is only bottled when Giboulot feels it is ready. What we love in Giboulot wines is this a pursuit of freshness.
“In the vineyard when your soil is alive, when roots go down deeply, natural equilibriums occur and a link to freshness happen always, even for warm vintages. The second fundamental point is the harvest date, founder of this balance”.
The acidity that you get is so intense and sharp for his plots which give to his wines a unique style. The kick of energy is also very impressive, probably due to the practices that produces biodynamic grapes vinified without additives and low levels of sulfites. The feeling of purity is always significant in the finished wine.
“Our role is to highlight differences. Take the example of Combe d’Eve and Pierres Blanches. Those two vineyards are based on a slope next to each other. Same work, same vinification process, two wines that are very different. Pierres Blanches touches people pretty quickly because of his generosity and dynamism immediately appreciable, while Combe d’Eve never shows off, always set back at the beginning. You need to go and pick it up when you taste. And finally, the fact that this wine is reserved generates more interest in my opinion. You need to be focused for such a wine, it’s your job to go and catch it, it is not obvious and you can miss it out!“