On Friday morning, Bruce Phillips and Francoise Peschon, of VHR, or Vine Hill Ranch, in Oakville, Napa Valley, came by Studio TEW for a visit. Here to debut their inaugural vintage–the VHR Cabernet Sauvignon 2008–Bruce discussed the inspiration for the wine, along with the history and transformation of his family's vineyards. In the family for three generations, VHR has been farmed by Napa Valley growers since 1884. Originally planted with plums, pears, grapes, and walnuts, VHR turned vineyard when purchased by Bruce Kelham, Phillips' maternal grandfather, in 1959. With 70 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon that run alongside the wooded hills of the Mayacamas Mountain Range, VHR consists of seven blocks, each with a unique terroir. Initially following in his father's (Bob Phillips) footsteps, Bruce sourced grapes to local vintners, who partnered with him in the field. In 1998, Michael Wolf joined the team as vineyard manager and in 2000, they started to explore the "winemaker's toolbox"– one acre plots within the seven lots that could potentially be vinified separately and blended.
In 2004, says Bruce, "Mike Wolf and I had lunch with my father..." who was happy to be a grower. "...He said, 'Why don't you try to figure out how to do this?'" And with that, they got his father's permission to vinify the grapes that they had been growing. Joined in 2008 by Francoise Peschon, who'd studied at UC Davis, spent time in Bordeaux apprenticing at Chateau Haut-Brion, and served for 15 years as the winemaker at Arajuo Estate, VHR took a calculated gamble, deciding to make their first vintage in the economically tumultuous 2008. "2008 was a winemaker's year," says Bruce, "with small berries and a tight crop." To best express the attributes of each block, for the first vintage they decided to begin with four one-acre carveouts that would be fermented separately, "to weave a blend together," says Francoise, "to make something unique...to make a wine without having to interfere too much...no filtering, no fining...it's all about extraction and maceration..." and their use of native yeasts. And though all 70 acres support Cabernet Sauvignon, there's diversity from within, says Francoise, through vine age and rootstock.
For the 2008 vintage, they vinified blocks 4, 6, and 7, which are listed on the label along with the harvest dates and yields. Inspired by old grower records, the labels are a tribute to the agricultural history of VHR. "The identity is tied to the old tax account documents that my father saved," says Bruce. "He dropped on the table a dusty box, and in it were old tax records from the 1800's. These documents are hand written...they're beautiful...they document how many hogs and vines...the documents solidify the history before my family." As Bruce and Francoise spoke, we passed the bottle and tasted the wine, which is restrained, elegant, and balanced. With fresh berries on the nose, a touch of spice, and ranch animal notes that turn savory on the palate, the VHR shows beautiful acidity and mid-palate tannins that blend together beautifully with the wine's herbaceousness. With elements of agability, the VHR is surprisingly approachable and drinking well now. With only 300 cases produced, our allotment is limited...and we certainly don't expect that it will last. In 2011, VHR was awarded the prestigious Napa Valley Grower of the Year Award, and we here at TEW certainly look forward to future vintages.